Sewing McCall’s 7760 Retro Drape Front Blouse & Jacket
I was amazed to find I had a coordinating group of purple fabrics in my stash—a jersey knit, a 3-ply silk, and a poly/rayon/spandex bottom weight for pants. This Melissa Watson blouse pattern, McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M7760, can also be a drapey jacket (jersey knit) to wear over a tank top (silk).
The pieces are wide. I shortened the top by 2” so the pieces would fit my fabric width. Pleats come from the front neckline.
I hemmed the entire outside edge and sleeve using 1/2”-wide Steam-A-Seam Lite. I love that this product is a sticky fusible web with a protective paper on one side. I pressed under 3/8” and then stuck the Steam-A-Seam on this pressed-under edge. As I worked my way around the hem, I put my iron on the paper to slightly melt the web. That way I could leave the paper on until I turned up the hem another 1/2”. When I went around the curves, the stickiness helped me ease in the edges for a smooth hem.
On my second time around, I peeled off the paper as I turned up and stuck the web in place. I made sure everything was smooth before pressing. It takes about 10–12 seconds to get a good fuse. I did not topstitch because the web has held well for me before if I fused long enough. But it would be easy to topstitch with the extra body created by Steam-A-Seam (we carry two versions on our website).
This technique is in the Palmer/Pletsch book Knits for Real People, by Susan Neall and Pati Palmer. We include tips from our books in the pattern guide sheets.
The hems chapter shows a variety of hems for knits, along with many hemming tips: