FIRST, A NOTE:
It’s been a long time since you’ve seen a new blog from us. We got caught up in creating our newest book, The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting. Melissa designed it with a whole new look, which we love. (See the cover at the bottom of this post.) Now we’re working on catching up with everything else, and we have a lot to share. Watch for a series of new blogs over the next several months. Melissa’s life has now taken her in a new direction—doing bespoke tailoring for men and woman through her new business, WATSON ELLIS. I’m taking on this blog, and inviting guest bloggers to join me. You’ll hear from one of them, Helen Bartley, shown with me above, next week!
THE MAGICAL BLOUSE
This McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch design M6750, also known as “The Three Hour Perfect Shirt,” is the perfect chameleon blouse. It is used in our Craftsy tissue-fitting course and our 2-Day Upper Body Fit Workshop. Yes, it shows 12 darts, of which eight are front and back waist darts and those can be used or eliminated based on your shape or your fabric, whether you will wear it as a shirt or a jacket, or your choice of fabrics—a cotton woven or a sweater knit.
Helen Bartley @seamdivas, my workshop co-instructor, has made this blouse in many looks and she will be a guest blogger and share her creations from the same pattern in our next blog. This time we used the sleeveless View A because it has the set-in armhole which is nice for sleeveless tops.
We both fell in love with the same rayon Batik. (Actually, I suggested she buy the fabric and do something out of it. Then when I saw what she was doing, I wanted one too! She allowed me to copy!) We do have similar coloring so often buy the same fabrics. We have to check in when we teach workshops together, but we have occasionally showed up in the same pattern and fabric. Funny that no one notices until we mention it!
We transferred the horizontal bust dart to the hem and this added width to the front, making it very flared and drapey in this rayon batik. Since Helen also did a full bust alteration, the transfer added more width at the bottom than mine, so she took 2” off the bottom at the sides to nothing at the armhole. We also added 2” of width at the bottom hip edge of the back tapering to nothing at the underarm. This gave the back the same flair as the front.
We shortened the blouse front and back by 4”.
Helen used bias binding around the armholes and I used the facings from the pattern.
We both used PerfectFuse Sheer on the upper collar and front facing. Since we sewed horizontal buttonholes, we cut the stable lengthwise grain of the interfacing the direction of the buttonholes to prevent stretch.
Below is page 162 from The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting showing you how to transfer darts.
These instructions are from The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting.
Sharleen ZebinskiJune 13, 2019
I love it! That you each made the same pattern and fabric! Just shows that each body is different, requiring different changes plus plus a little playing with the pattern. Love it!
Sew, what’s next?
Pati PalmerJune 14, 2019
Next—Helen’s amazing variations using the same pattern. You’ll love it! Thanks
RobynJune 13, 2019
This is a great looking blouse, I can’t wait to make it, you inspired me!
MargueriteJune 13, 2019
Hello! So happy to see you back blogging. I’ve been drooling over Melissa’s gorgeous suits on her Instagram page. I have this blouse pattern but have not made it up yet but plan on getting to it this month. Looking forward to future posts.
Barbara MoretonJune 14, 2019
I have just completed a blouse with this pattern . I am going to make another one and have been thinking to change the hemline, so your blog was a nice surprise today.
maggie deeganJune 14, 2019
Great blog, great photos and a great idea for adapting a favourite , classic pattern. You two look so happy. Looking forward to more fresh ideas, XXX Maggie. (Deegan).
JulieJune 14, 2019
Showing the altered pattern piece is super useful! It looks great with this modification.
BarbaraJune 14, 2019
This is my all-time favorite summer blouse pattern! I’ve made it many times and the blouse is a staple in my summer wardrobe. I love the hack and I love this blog – it’s my first time visiting!
Pati PalmerJune 15, 2019
Thank you. We will try to keep up to your expectations! And, welcome!
Mary M.June 14, 2019
Looks like I’ve just got a new project to try! The blouse looks like it will be fun to work on, and to wear. Can’t wait!
Jan McMinnJune 15, 2019
I’m presenting a demo of tissue fitting, using this blouse at a class this weekend. It’s a gorgeous pattern. I’ve made several, and the sleeveless version is my next one!
Pati, you and Helen look great in those!
Pati PalmerJune 19, 2019
Jan, You have been so successful since you decided to become a fit teacher in Colorado. If anyone is in the Denver area, I recommend Jan. You can find her contact info on the palmerpletsch.com website under find a teacher.
Carol OJune 15, 2019
Welcome back! I always pick up a tip or two or five with your blog. Looking forward to seeing the variations on this pattern (which I have) and how it will inspire me.
NancyJune 15, 2019
This is the first pattern I made when I returned to sewing that fit me. I made the sleeveless version and am going to make 2 more. It is perfect in the Arizona heat. Thank you. I am looking forward to your blog .
Tracy McElfreshJune 17, 2019
Very cool, thank you for sharing. More blog posts like these please.
KathyJune 17, 2019
I have made this blouse a few times and just love it!
SusieAugust 24, 2019
I’ve watched the craftsy class on fitting and I think I have all the adjustments made to the tissue. However, now I’ve started piecing it together and am not quite clear on the sewing instructions. Is there a sew along tutorial or video on the actual construction somewhere? I have only ever used pdf\indy patterns previously. These tissue “big four” patterns have me too confused!
PatiAugust 28, 2019
I wrote the instructions for the guidesheet. Read them through a couple of times before you start to be familiar with the sewing order. It is pretty complete. I suppose if you are not used to reading them, the terms commonly used in patterns could be a bit unfamiliar, but there is art as well. You can write me at firstname.lastname@example.org with specific numbered steps you are not understanding and I will try to help. I have the guide on my computer so it would be easy for me to do. Sincerely, Pati Palmer
marySeptember 12, 2022
Anything related to dress I love it… same as I order something from O2clothing is awesome must check out their collection
Check it out. O2clothingstudio