McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M7092 Empire-Waist Top for Knits

McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M7092 is one of my favorite tops. It is very flattering. The contrast inset adds interest by framing the face, or it can be made in the same fabric as the body of the top.







The original croquie shows all the front options and the back.


It also included side shirring, shown at left. This idea did not make it into the pattern. To add this, simply lengthen the pattern by 4-6” and sew the lower side seams through 1/8” elastic while pulling the elastic to shorten it and gather the fabric.



Pati Palmer wearing McCall's Palmer/Pletsch pattern M7092 purple knit blouse


My spring/summer top is a rayon and spandex fabric. Because it has a lot of stretch, I played with the inset and the area near the center front, making sure it was pulled down enough to be taut along the V-neckline.
















Pati Palmer in a winter version of McCall's Palmer/Pletsch pattern M7092 knit blouse


My fall version is sewn from a wool jersey print that I fell in love with. The black inset is a stretch woven polyester/rayon/spandex, which has little stretch. I had to pull the inset taut and then make sure the wool was smooth as well. Anytime you have a V-neck empire style, you will need to tweak the under-bust seam to fit, especially if you also did a full bust alteration. Machine baste first and try on. Basting is easy to remove if you need to tighten or loosen the seam.

The pants are McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M6901, our pant fit pattern, in the same poly/rayon/spandex stretch woven as the inset.







Knits for Real People

We include in our pattern guide sheets tips from our books. The assortment of pages below from Knits for Real People show expanded information on many techniques.



Knits for Real People page 114


pages from Knits for Real People

This Post Has 6 Comments

  1. Lynn Mally

    Thanks for restarting your blog! I always enjoy the posts.

  2. Lyn Peacock

    Love this new blog. Have a piece of knit waiting for production and 7092 extended to dress length is just the thing .Just 12 months since I visited the Workshop in Portland and it was an inspiring time.

    1. Pati Palmer

      Lyn, Thanks for writing. Just remember you will need to fit the neckline layers and the tucks to your bust. Pull any of the layers down at the center front to get it to snug your chest at the V. I used knits with 2 different stretches and you will have no idea how they will fit differently until you pin or baste everything together and try it on. You can also adjust the pleats to be flattering under YOUR bust. Takes more time than a plain wrap front, but if you take it and get it right, you’ll love it. Pati

  3. Julie Coppleman

    Love receiving these revamped or totally new sewing ideas from McCalls patterns – inspiring as I miss the downloads of yesteryear where you had a small booklet of ideas and patterns for each season. Still check them out occasionally as the tips on fitting were amazing!

  4. Verna

    Hi, your blouse looks great, I made this top in an it’s knit and the way the inset was constructed made it so bulky and heavy, any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you

    1. Pati Palmer

      The key is to adjust the pleats on your body to fit your bust and to pull down at center front if it gaps. My sweaterknit was bulky with the stretch woven insert, but when I fiddled with the empire seam and the pleats, I ended up liking it. The cotton spandex fabric was not that bulky, so may depend on fabric. I did the dress version in a poly interlock and it was the least bulky. So fabric is definitely a factor. Hope this helps.

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