• Stabilizer — attached to the wrong side of the jacket front under the pocket. Choose one of the following:
  • Pellon stabilizer — Cut a piece of Featherweight or Midweight Pellon (not fusible) the same size as the welt. Marta uses this non-woven stabilizer.
  • PerfectFuse Light — Cut as above and use in place of Pellon. Sue uses this method.

TO START:

1) Mark pocket placement on the wrong side of the jacket front.

 

2) Draw welt box on the stabilizer. Accurate marking is the key to perfect welts. Draw two parallel lines the length of the interfacing, centered, and 1/2” apart. Then draw the end lines, making a 6” long box. NOTE: If using a fusible stabilizer, draw the lines after fusing – Step 3.

3) On WRONG SIDE of the jacket, fuse the interfacing, matching pocket placement lines.

 

4) From the wrong side baste stitch around the box, using a contrast color thread in the bobbin. Start and stop stitching in the center of one long side of the box. (never start stitching at the corner of the box).

 

5) From the right side, center the pocket bag lining over the box. The top edge of the pocket bag should be 1″ above the top line of the box.

 

6) On the wrong side, stitch around the box, 1.5mm stitch length especially around the corners, again starting and stopping in the center of one long side of the box and overlap those stitches.

 

7) Cut through center of the box, through all layers, stopping 1/2″ away from the ends; carefully clip diagonally ALL THE WAY to the corners.

 

8) Turn the pocket bag to the inside. Anchor on a pressing ham and do your best to make sure the pocket bag doesn’t peek out on the right side of the garment. (Note: Since I am using a brightly colored lining here, which is what the welts are made of anyway, I’m not too very worried about the lining showing; still, try your best to roll to the inside.)

 

10) Use a strip of SewkeysE double sided fusible stay tape on top and bottom of box, iron down and then peel off protective paper.

 

11) Flip garment to right side and position the box window over the double welts you just made, iron down. Welts will stick to the wrong side of the window.

 

12) Edge stitch around the box on the right side, catching the welts. Remove basting between two welts.

 

13) On inside, bring pocket bag up to cover welt with raw edges matching; pin in place.

 

Finish off the edges of the pocket bag by stitching them together. Round off the corners to prevent lint from gathering there. (I didn’t do it here, but I should have! Tsk, tsk!)