WANT TO LEARN TO FIT PANTS?
Guidesheet Tips for Butterick Pant Pattern B6845 by Pati Palmer
BEST STYLE FOR LEARNING TO FIT PANTS
This blog post is about how to follow the guidesheet in our latest Palmer/Pletsch pant fit pattern. Why? Because the complete sewing order for the basic fit pant is not shown until page 5 of the guidesheet. Most of the art shows the fly front zipper and pockets. Butterick did it this way to save paper, a new concern for pattern companies. You may find it helpful to read this blog post before starting on pant fitting.
Start with a basic pant. To learn to fit, the pants pattern you choose should be very simple—just two legs. We’re calling this Level I. It should not have pockets, yokes, contour bands, or fly-front zipper. It can have an invisible zipper with a nonroll waistband. It can be pull-on with a sewn-on elastic casing. The width of the legs can be changed. THIS WAY YOU CAN FOCUS ON THE FIT. More details can reduce accuracy and add time. Later you can sew a more detailed pant (Level II). For your second pair, you might choose a fly front and trouser pockets.
You will need to skip around the guidesheet for Level I and Level II. What follows is how to use the guide sheet. (Yes, you’ll want to read it!)
BONUS: a blog about making design changes to your basic pants
Here’s a blog post with more design changes you can make from this pattern once it’s altered.
HOW TO USE THE GUIDESHEET
GUIDESHEET PAGES 1 AND 2
PAGE 1
LEVELS I AND II
• Select the right size.
• Prep the pattern.
LEVEL I
• Tape the side inset to the front to remove pocket.
• Fold under fly extension.
PAGE 2
LEVELS I AND II
• Try on tissue.
• Alter the pattern
GUIDESHEET PAGE 3
LEVELS I AND II: Finalize the tissue. Fit the waistband using the largest size so you have plenty of length for an underlap and for fitting fabric with interfacing attached over the top of the pants.
GUIDESHEET PAGE 4
NOTE: The sewing instructions for the basic pant start with the zipper on page 5.
LEVEL II
• Sew fly-front zipper.
• Sew trouser pockets.
• Sew back and front crotch to within 1 ½” from inseam.
• Pin for fabric-fitting and try on. (Continued on page 5.)
LEVEL I
Follow the fitting instructions for Level II after sewing the back zipper on page 5.
GUIDESHEET PAGE 5
LEVEL II
• Mark fitting changes on the wrong side.
• Sew inseams.
• Finish sewing crotch.
• Fit and sew nonroll waistband with front opening.
• Sew hem.
• Sew hook and eye.
LEVEL I
After tissue-fitting and cutting, the first step is to sew invisible zipper in the back.
GUIDESHEET PAGE 6
LEVEL I
• Finish bottom of invisible zipper and sew back crotch and front crotch seams to 1 ½” from inseams.
• Pin sides and inseams for fabric-fitting and follow fitting on page 5 as for the trouser style. (Tip for darts: If you have a friend or are in a class where a teacher and fit the darts for you, pin them on the outside.) Mark changes.
• Sew darts.
• Sew front to back at inseams and outseams.
• Fit, then sew, waistband with back opening.
• Sew hook and eye.
• Go back to page 5 for hem.
FACTOID: Why do I love designing and writing guidesheets that include pant fitting? Here is a window into my past 54 years:
I’ve been teaching pant fitting and sewing since 1971 and training sewing teachers since 1991. Becoming a pant-fitting expert evolved gradually from testing new ideas in books and patterns. My first book, Pants for Any Body, was published in 1973. In 1975 I persuaded Vogue to let me do a pant fit pattern and, with Susan Pletsch, it debuted in 1977. We switched to McCall’s in 1980. After Susan left our company, I continued designing for McCall’s until 2020. The total number of McCall’s pant fit patterns included 10 jeans and 35 other pant styles including culottes and trousers for men and women. In addition, 45 of my coordinates patterns included pants. From 2020-2025, 14 of my Butterick patterns included pants. That means that out of 360 Palmer/Pletsch patterns, I’ve written a total of 95 guidesheets for all types of pants including jumpsuits.
In 2025 I passed the torch to Tammie Pontsler to continue designing Palmer/Pletsch patterns. Watch for her new designs.
P.S. If you’re interested in more in-depth fitting guidance, consider our Palmer/Pletsch workshops, offered both in-person and online.
FOR MORE FITTING, READ THIS BLOG POST:
TAMMIE PONSTLER IS THE NEW DESIGNER OF PALMER/PLETSCH BUTTERICK PATTERNS
Read the blog about her first pattern:
WE OFFEr AN ARRAY OF RESOURCES FOR SEWISTS
WORKSHOPS
INTERFACINGS
STREAMING VIDEOS
Love your method of fitting pants! A little difficult to get used to tissue fitting, but very nice results.