by Pati Palmer with Helen Bartley
Before you read this blog, take note!
THIS CAMP SHIRT PATTERN IS DESIGNED TO HELP YOU FIT/SEW.
FULL BACK YOKE – If you are square on one shoulder and sloping on the other, you can alter both sides. Also, a one-piece yoke makes the high-round back alteration easier. AND you must cut double only once!
YOKE FRONT SHOULDER SEAM PLACEMENT is 2” below shoulder line marked on the yoke. This allows for gathers in View C to fill the hollow between shoulder and bust or add gathers when you transfer the bust darts to the shoulder on Views A and B.
BACK PLEATS OR GATHERS – Choose the placement you desire by using pleat lines on Views A (center) or B (sides).
SLEEVES – The ease is 7/8”, making the sleeve easy to set in in shirting fabrics.
SIDE SEAMS – 1” seam allowances allow for our new way of minimizing full upper arm adjustments, which we now use in fit workshops.
HEMS – Choose the hem style you want from three options.
COLLAR – Helen wanted right-angle points for making perfect collars. The sewing order for the collar is used in her Fit and Sew Shirts 5-day workshop.
PAINLESS PLACKET SLEEVE – Developed by Marta Alto for our Painless Sewing book, which shows how to convert any sleeve to this easy placket.
TISSUE-FITTING AND FABRIC-FITTING – All Palmer/Pletsch patterns include alteration lines on the tissue and fitting how-tos in the guidesheet.
I used to dislike wearing shirts. I was the blazer lady and I preferred sleeveless tanks under them.
Then I edited and published Helen’s book Fit and Sew Custom Jeans. I needed to learn to sew REAL jeans details and perfect fitting jeans with negative ease. I made seven pairs and became a jeans hugger. Now I love wearing shirts because they are great with jeans!
The shirts on the rack are made from our new Butterick shirt patterns, and I’m wearing B6924.
You can use any of these shirts, the unisex shirt, or the camp shirt during our Perfect Your Fit & Sew Skills 5-day workshops in Vancouver/Portland or Michigan. Make a classic shirt or another style. Goal—finally to fit your body perfectly and to sew all shirt details perfectly and easily.
A fresh look for this camp shirt pattern
Helen and I bought the fabrics and sewed the shirts for the models to wear. We wanted fabrics that would sew easily and look fresh. View A is rayon, B is a high-quality cotton print, and C is a cotton lawn, all from Josephine’s Dry Goods here in Portland. Below is the photo spread in the Butterick catalog that features this pattern. The trendy matching shirt and trouser shorts (B6878) is a Rayon challis print WorkroomSocial.com
We love sewing together! Pati uses continuous sewing. Helen models latest trend. Pati packs shirts to send to Butterick.
REMINDER: Leave your pattern pieces out until you are finished with the garment. It’s handy when you need to check for accuracy such as making sure the fabric is not skewed before fusing interfacing.
1” side seam allowances are provided on this shirt pattern.
BUT OOPS! I forgot and added 3/8” to the sides by chalking on the fabric. I do this automatically when the side seam allowance is 5/8”. But on this pattern, the 3/8” I added made the seam allowances
1 3/8” wide.
After pin-fitting my fabric, I realized, “Wow! This is too big.” I repinned the seams at 1 3/8”. I usually add for my hips, but the pleats in the back allowed enough to go around me comfortably.
After basting in the sleeves, I saw wrinkles pointing toward my center back. This was caused by not having enough length at the CB. I did a 1/4” high round back alteration on the yoke. Should I have done more? Or do I need a low round back alteration too?
I can’t change it now, but in the denim shirt, I sewed the yoke to the back using a 5/8” seam near the armholes, narrowing to 1/4” at the CB. This gave me 3/4” more length at the CB. The wrinkle disappeared. I’ll look more closely next time I tissue-fit!
Fancy Neck Facing
As with the pattern pieces, I keep the guidesheet out all the time to follow the order of sewing. It is a double-check to prevent mistakes. Thank you, Helen Bartley, for contributing to this guidesheet! The “fancy neck facing” was her suggestion. We love hiding the seam allowances with a pretty cotton print self-made bias binding. It is a couture touch that eliminates hand-stitching.
The “Burrito Method” for Finishing the Yoke
Follow the guidesheet if the “burrito method” for finishing the yoke is new to you! It is easy, tidy, and FUN!
When it comes to topstitching, I subscribe to the 4-foot rule, if someone is 4 feet away, they won’t see your mistake, and if they are closer, they are probably interested in something else!
Helen suggested I use white topstitching on the denim shirt. This was an interesting TEST using a 3mm stitch length. For the top row, I changed the upper thread to white and left navy in the bobbin. Hmmm. Do I want that? So I put white in the bobbin for the second row.
Which do you like better?
I chose keeping navy in the bobbin. It made a prettier topstitch.
I don’t like to share my mistakes, but why did I cut a size 10 cuff when my shirt is a size 12?? Will we ever know?? The art of sewing includes the art of fixing.
The size 10 cuff was 5/8” shorter, so I cut off 5/8” from the lower sleeve to make the sleeve fit. This worked well because my cuffs are usually too big anyway.
I had already finished the cuff. Remember that enclosed seams need to be pressed open before turning to make a nicer edge.
THE PAINLESS PLACKET
For the “painless placket,” press the placket opening under 1/4” and another 3/8” to the snip that marks the placket opening. Then unfold it below the snip so you can sew the sleeve seam a little past the snip. Pin and stitch around the placket opening.
We hope you enjoyed our blog!
RESOURCES FROM PALMER/PLETSCH JUST FOR YOU
Copy this list for a quick reference for when you are trying to find things on the Palmer/Pletsch website. Thank you for reading our blogs!
5-day shirt workshop Portland/Vancouver https://palmerpletsch.com/product/perfect-your-fit-sew-skills-workshop-5-day-workshop-vancouver-10-19-2023/ (Check out other locations too. This workshop is also offered in Michigan — https://palmerpletsch.com/product/perfect-fit-and-sew-skills-5-day-workshop-michigan-10-27-2023/)
Interfacings for shirts: https://palmerpletsch.com/product-category/interfacings/
Interfacing experts: https://palmerpletsch.com/interfacing-sewing-experts/
Find a teacher near you: https://palmerpletsch.com/find-a-sewing-teacher/
Sewing books: https://palmerpletsch.com/product-category/sewing-books/
Jeans book with the latest pant fitting for negative ease—the perfect companion to Pants for Real People: https://palmerpletsch.com/product/fit-and-sew-custom-jeans-sewing-book/
Free Video sewing tutorials: https://palmerpletsch.com/video-sewing-tutorials/ (More on Youtube.com/palmerpletsch)
Sewing Workshop locations and topics: https://palmerpletsch.com/workshops-intro/
NEW: Seminars, Beginning Sewing classes, 1- to 3-day workshops with guest instructors. Coming: more Zoom classes. https://palmerpletsch.com/palmer-pletsch-vancouver-sew-op-sewing-school/
All sewing blogs: https://palmerpletsch.blog/
About the experts at Palmer/Pletsch: https://palmerpletsch.com/about-us/ (Scroll down for FREE downloads such as the fitting order from our fit book.)
Elaine EarnshawMay 19, 2023
I really enjoyed your inspiring blog. The fancy bias strip was a great idea of Helen’s. I had to smile when you included your mistakes, I think most of us can relate. You always include some valuable tips which I truly appreciate. Thank you for this informative blog and pictures of your shirts. You both modeled them very well and the shirts looked great on you both.
Pati PalmerMay 20, 2023
Thank you for the nice comments. Makes the extra time photographing tips when sewing worthwhile. I loved working with Helen on this pattern. She taught our beginning sewing program for years and used many of these tips for the camp shirt pajama pattern used in the program to make the shirt more fun and easier.
Diane Olson SandersMay 20, 2023
Thank you for the idea for adding the pretty print strip covering the collar seam. I hope you will keep the blog going as even we seniors who have sewn for 60+ years can learn from them.
Pati PalmerMay 20, 2023
Thank you for giving us reasons to keep on blogging about our patterns. Pati
Mary Ann MlynarskiMay 20, 2023
Noticed in your description of “1 inch side seams” you mentioned something about this helping with a new way to fit the upper arm. Is this available as an add on to your fitting books?
Pati PalmerMay 20, 2023
It is a new idea for those with large upper arms. It is in the teacher training files but not in the book. If you send me an email at email@example.com I will email you with the full bust/upper arm handout when I return from Mexico May 28th. Pati
JoanMay 20, 2023
Love this new pattern, Pati and Helen! I haven’t sewn a “real” collar since I was in my twenties (LOOONG time ago) and this is a good pattern to work on collar skills, and extend my top wardrobe beyond my favorite T-shirts. I love your teaching blogs and hope you continue them, as you REALLY teach in them, yet they are full of personality! Love Helen’s dress version!
Pati PalmerMay 22, 2023
Thank you for your nice comments. I love sharing in our blogs and the extra efforts are made worthwhile when I get comments like these. Helen has been a great contributor also. Pati
Alice BirneyMay 21, 2023
I cannot wait to make this shirt. This blog post fills me with confidence. I’m wondering if you can share the source of the fabric used for Helen’s dress. What a great idea and that print is just spectacular!
Pati PalmerMay 22, 2023
Helen’s dress is a beautiful weight rayon fabric from WorkroomSocial.com. You can write firstname.lastname@example.org and see if she has any left. I am in Mexico and don’t have the style number available, but you might look through all of the swatches on her site to find one you like. It drapes and sews beautifully. Pati
Alice BirneyMay 23, 2023
Found it! Thanks so much
createdbyherJune 6, 2023
Very trick, adds something to, this trick also makes fabric Non-Stretch.